Under the Table

A chronicle of gastronomic adventures by G.A. Benton

Feb 27

Sticking My Fingers Back In the Till

Here’s some more musings on my new favorite restaurant, which I reviewed in last week’s Alive 

Till’s the kinda place where tofu’s actually a thrill to eat instead of some healthy but boring (at best) food you choke back to feel virtuous — as this Fresh Tofu + Festival Rice attests. Made-to-order out of soy milk, arriving surprisingly warm and yogurty, and served with the perfect foil of a sushi-riffing, pickly, crunchy and sesame oil-annointed edamame salad with a killer little miso sauce, it’s a real revelation of a dish…  

…as was this terrific, and crisply bottom-seared Scrapple “Mole” with Spinach. The first time I ate it, it was sorta terrine-like, made with scraps of biodynamic beef tongue and heart (sounds like a long-lost Captain Beefheart record, no?), house-smoked ham and organic chicken; the second time it was much more polenta-like and made with all pork. Both times, it was outstanding, and I loved how the acidic, sauteed spinach put the richness of cornmeal and meat into high relief. Bonus: it made me think about that great tune (Scrapple from the Apple) by the genius Charlie Parker. 

This “Commissary Meal” of vegan Goulash with a lovely salad (the latter sported greens that had no right to be so tender in the dead of winter—albeit a winter of unending spring fever-y weather) is an example of Till’s under $10 lunch specials (2 courses served with a send-you-off-with-a-smile chewy and citrusy sugar cookie when I had ‘em)  

Commissary Meal #2 (i.e. the meat option) was this beautiful Chicken Linguini with handmade egg noodles and super-tender chicken slivers whose elegance, freshness and simplicity momentarily took me back to Italy.

See you soon at Till