Under the Table

A chronicle of gastronomic adventures by G.A. Benton

Aug 2

Restaurant Week: Till

Last week, Till’s $20, 3-course dinner special beckoned to us like icy beer on a sweltering evening

Speaking of which, Till’s beer-tail — the almost Saison-y Old Porch Swing — was pretty refreshing on the place’s packed little patio. Still, I preferred Till’s bracing and thoroughly terrific martini riff called the Martinez, made with Ransom, that great “Old Tom”-style, scotch-colored gin

Fried green tomatoes with shiitake melon seviche was a beautiful first course that popped open eyes with color and propped open palates with astringency 

Homemade sausage and biodynamic cheddar biscuits was a different, more comforting type starter that gently massaged the mouth into awakeness

This loaded Lamb burger on a homemade bun rules Columbus right now

But the Vegan Mac & Cheese with blackened tofu brought a lotta unexpected meatless fun to our tongues too — and reminded us how high Dragonfly could make uninteresting-sounding, hippie-ish food really soar

This potent and pretty Watershed Sling was refreshing and a very capable “intermezzo” 

If this heavily adorned brownie-like “Mexican Hot Chocolate” looks kinda melty from sitting in the intense July heat, it was. Fortunately it was devoured so quickly it had little chance to further disintegrate

Even better was this re-imagined goat cheese tiramisu with poached peaches. Yeah, it might sound kinda over-thought, but it was light and lively and actually unforgettable.

On another finishing note, I was glad to see Till so busy last week that I had to wait for a seat. See, I was too ignorant to make reservations (like everyone else there, I suppose) yet the friendly Till folks still managed to sneak me in. On the downside, it was a drawn-out and protracted dinner service — good thing I had nothing better to do than sink deep into the late summer evening and slowly enjoy the growing night.